This is a sponsored post ya’ll. National Hardware provided me with barn door hardware, in exchange for this post. My opinions are 100% my own, however… if I didn’t love it, I wouldn’t do it!
As you may remember from our master bathroom progress post a couple weeks ago, I shared that we would be installing a sliding barn door to create more space. Well, friends, today is the day you get to see this lovely addition, in all her glory!
I was thrilled when National Hardware sent me their new sliding barn door hardware to try out. I chose the oil-rubbed bronze finish, which is more like a satin-finish black and I loooooove it! It is very well made, smooth as butta, and was pretty easy to install.
So, once I had the hardware in hand, I set out to find the perfect door.
Last fall I shared my master bedroom plans, and this door (top right) was my inspiration:
From the pics you saw a couple weeks ago, you saw that I found this old door on craigslist, which was caked in white paint. One side had several layers and the other, fortunately, had only 1 layer of white paint. The layers on the other side were weird colors too… one white, another pink, another pea-soup green, and another white layer… These crazy layers were not going to work, so I set out to create my own authentic, layered look with a color palette that worked with my room.
I used a metal scraper to get some of the white paint off, then used custom mixes of MMSMP Shutter gray, ASCP Country Gray, French Linen and Old White, to get this layered, chippy finish.
Then, I added one of my glass door knobs I had been holding on to, and it became everything I dreamed of.
Installing was very simple. The instructions provided were quite straight-forward but here is an overview with some tips we learned on the way.
How to Install a Barn Door – My Tips & Tricks
1. Measure and mark where the holes will go on the door, using the template provided with the hardware.
If you use a salvaged door like I did, you might have to deal with the top or side not being perfectly straight. So, to work around this can place the metal strap piece that will be attached, on top of the marks, then draw a line all the way around it. Then you can remove the strap and make sure it is straight using a level and a speed square, or measuring the lines from the center beveled rectangles, making sure they all have the same distance. Also, it doesn’t hurt to stand it up and make sure it looks right, visually.
2. Pre-drill holes in the door where the bolts will go.
Make sure to use a drill bit size larger than the bolt (1/2″ at least), so you can slide the bolt in and out easily when attaching. If not, you will work up quite a sweat trying to screw that bolt in into the door.
3. Attach metal straps using the cap nuts provided.
There are two sizes of bolts that National Hardware sends with the kit. One for a super thick door, and one for a standard door. We used the size for a standard door. Make sure you use the right size bolt for the thickness of your door, or the cap nuts won’t be tight enough and door will wobble.
4. Measure and pre-drill 1/2″ holes in a 1×6 where bolts will attach the track.
The bolts for the track are about 20 inches apart, which is wider than typical stud width, so attaching the track onto a 6′ board (same length as track) is necessary. The instructions call for a 2×6, but after doing this, we decided the gap between the wall and where the door hung was too much (about 3 inches), so we opted for a 1×6, which provides a little more privacy for the bathroom. AKA I didn’t want my children trying to squeeze their mouths through the gap when they were trying to talk to me when the door was shut.
The instructions also say to drill these holes in the middle of the board. Our door was 80″ tall, which wasn’t long enough to reach the floor, if we did this (with an 80″ door frame opening and 1 1/2″ trim on top of that), so we opted to drill the holes 1″ from the bottom of the board (at center), so the top of the wheel would hit at the top of the board. That left about 1 1/2″ gap from the bottom of the door to the floor, which is taller than what is suggested, but we made it work by installing the floor door guide on top of a little wood block, instead of installing it directly in the floor (I’ll explain more later). Basically, all this is easier if you choose a door that is at least a couple inches taller than your door opening.
5. Paint the board to match the wall color.
You won’t want to paint after the track is attached… it will be harder to keep you hardware clean.
6. Use a stud-finder to mark the studs on the wall and board above the door.
Make corresponding marks on the board where the studs are. Before you attach the board to the wall, MAKE SURE you use a long level and trace with a pencil around the board where you will attach it to the wall. DO NOT rely on your door frame or adjacent wall. We learned this the hard way, but our door frame is not straight (probably because we live in an old house), so we had to make adjustments with the board to make sure the door hung level.
7. Screw 1×6 board onto wall where the studs are marked using 2 1/2″ screws.
You will want the level on the top of the board while you are screwing it into the wall. Start on one far end, then secure the other far end, once you make sure it is level. This is where your pencil traced outline of the board on the wall comes in handy. It helps you double-check the level-ness. haha pretty sure that is not a word! Once both ends are screwed in, attach other screws into the wall studs.
8. Attach track to board using 1/2″ socket drill bit.
Trust me you don’t want to attach this by hand. Use an electric screwdriver/drill with magnetic socket attachment bit that allows you to put the 1/2″ socket to it. It goes sooooo much faster. The bolts that hold the track will first go through a metal spacer provided, then into the board, then into the wall. These spacers make it so the wheel hanger doesn’t hit the board. Screw them into the board the same way you attached the board to the wall: put a level on top, start at one end, secure, then secure the other end. Finish by securing the middle two bolts last.
9. Measure and install door stops and jump disks.
You will have to hang the door on first, to measure where you want the door to stop on either end. While it is on there, you might as well mark where you want your floor guide to go as well. It will sit just past the opening of the door. Once you’ve measured where the door stops go, take off either end of the track bolts, slide on the stops, and then reattach the bolts to the track. Jump disks are optional, but you can easily screw them into the top of the door at the same time.
10. Attach floor guide to floor, and hang door.
If your floor guide needs to be elevated a little, like mine did, get a wood block that has has a thickness that allows a 1/4″ clearance from the floor guide to the bottom of the door (mine was about 1 1/4″ thick). Then make sure the width and length are about 2″ long and the thickness of the door plus 2 inches (so about 4″for me). Screw the wood block using 2″ screws into the floor where you marked the floor guide should go. Hang door, making sure to fit the door into the floor guide.
This door is one of my favorite aspects of not only the bathroom, but our master bedroom also, as it makes quite the statement! Our tiny bathroom now doesn’t feel quite as small, since there isn’t a normal door swinging in and out, but instead allows more usable floor space.
I highly recommend National Hardware’s sliding barn door hardware. Our tiny master bathroom has become our favorite makeover in our home to-date, and the door is a huge reason why.
This hardware that I was provided with is available starting August 2015. To purchase, go HERE.
**affiliate links included in this post.