China Cabinet Makeover

I finally have another furniture makeover to share! This one I picked up A YEAR AGO! It has taken me forever to get around to giving it a facelift but I knew I would paint it the moment I saw it. It had some termite holes on the side, some uneven stain fading on the lower cabinet front, one of the doors’ hinge was messed up and needed repair, and the top cabinet knobs were crookedly installed (meaning I’d have to drill a new hole and patch the previous one). I also am not a huge fan of mahogany-colored wood. It is too red for me!

For the color, I knew I wanted a blue, since I’m pretty sure I’m going to paint the walls in this front room, a creamy color. I LOVE the color Duck Egg (Chalk Paint by Annie Sloan) but I wanted something a little lighter, since this room doesn’t have great lighting. So I mixed a 1:1 ratio of Duck Egg and Old White, and used Old White on the trim. I sealed with Annie Sloan Clear Soft Wax.

I don’t normally paint hardware, but I didn’t want the attention on the hardware in this piece. The shape was striking and beautiful, and I wanted more attention on the white accent details I painted, so I decided to just paint and wax them.

 

I think a common misconception about clear wax is that it is JUST a top-coat like other top coats (polyacrylic, polyurethane, verathane). BUT, when you use a porous paint like Chalk Paint, the paint actually absorbs the wax and becomes one. That is how it was designed. That is why it is so important to wipe off excess, because that part is the part that ISN’T absorbed by the paint and will just sit on top, being sticky and causing fingerprints to be visible. If that is happening, you need to wipe and wipe some more with clean absorbent clothes and/or a brown paper bag. A correctly waxed piece will be smooth and dry to the touch.

Not all paints are porous and should have a wax top coat. Latex paint will never absorb wax like Chalk Paint and I wouldn’t recommend it. Milk paint is also a porous paint and is designed to absorb a wax or hemp oil top coat. But all other types should really have some other type of non-yellowing top-coat.

 

I am going to start doing some video tutorials, including a waxing tutorial. If you have any questions you would like me to address, leave them in the comments!

When I first painted the cabinet, I didn’t paint the interior white. While I liked the contrast with the white dishes inside, I knew I wouldn’t keep ONLY dishes in there, but also, I really like the soft look of white on white or cream/off-white on white.  (p.s. who notices my daughter’s contribution to this vignette? smh)

 

 

Now, with a white/light background, pretty details, like this bouquet of roses, stand out, instead of getting lost among all that red mahogany.

 

I also wanted some slightly darker objects to contrast, but not too much, so I turned the books around so their dark covers didn’t become a ‘hole’ in the picture.

 

The knobs are now straight!

This corner is so perfect for this cabinet, and I don’t think she will be moving anytime soon. Now, this really makes me want to paint the walls!

 

It’s almost the weekend! And there ONLY 2 weeks until Vintage Market Days! I don’t know if I will be able to get everything done, but I’m taking one day at a time.

I haven’t shared this before, but in case you didn’t see the announcement on the St Louis Vintage Market Days Facebook Page…

I will be teaching a demo class

on Chalk Paint and Waxed Finishes

at St Louis Vintage Market Days!

Saturday September 20th 1:00pm

&

Sunday September 21st 2:00pm

There will be other demos Saturday and Sunday afternoon as well, including furniture restoration/General Finishes paint demo by Rescued Furnishings, some paint demo by Treasure House, and a fall arrangement by JMG Design.  I do not officially represent Annie Sloan Chalk Paint but I will be showing different techniques and things that can be painted with Chalk Paint, choosing colors, and how to correctly wax a piece of furniture.

I’m excited. And nervous. Pray for me! 😉